Weave as You Work - crochet tip

I have yet to meet a hooker who enjoys weaving ends of a crochet project. 

That is the most dreadful thing if you ask me. I would rather work several rows in a difficult stitch than weave those tails. But in all these years of crocheting, I've urged myself to weave them in - or more accurately - to work those tails over as I go. 

And the difference has been more than rewarding. I now finish a project with scarcely any tails at all. 

 

So this is how I do it. The project in the pictures is a granny triangle, so it involves insertion of several colors, which means many yarn additions, hence more tails. 

I am no friend of short tails, so my beginning and ending tails are always long. That way I can ensure I have the tail nicely tucked in and covered. This being said, I can assure you that I have never had a tail become loose and ruin my project. 

When I join foundation chains to make a ring, and because I am working in the round, I always place the tail on the left (1) - behind the crochet work, and I immediately start working the tail over as I go (2-4). If I use the same color of yarn in the second round, I continue working it over until there is no tail left.

 

 

I end previous round with a long tail. When inserting new color of yarn, I never do it in the stitch where I ended. I usually go a stitch or two back and insert the yarn there (5-6). That way I can get a good and strong hold over (now) 2 tails. After a couple of stitches working these tails, I tie both in a knot (7), and continue working them over for a couple of stitches more (8). Then I either cut the first tail or it runs off (9). In pictures 10 (back) and 11 (front) you can see that it was worth working those tails because there are none except for the last one.

 

 

I use a tapestry needle to work the last tail (12). I insert the threaded needle through the middle of the stitch that comes first (13), then guide the needle downwards at the back of the work,  slide it through several stitches (14), I tie it into 2 knots at this point, then I slide it through several stitches more (15) and then I cut off the excess. Very easy, clean and neat job, if you ask me.

                                    Back                                                                Front

 

What about you? How do you work your tails? Will you share in the comments please?

 

A Colourful Friday Sale

It's Black Friday, right? Well, black has never been a favourite color, so instead I am having a Colorful Friday sale. Everything in my shop is 25% off, no discount code needed. Sale is valid to Monday 29th.

Wishing you a lovely and creative weekend ahead!

Festive Granny Stripe Coasters - free pattern

 

Hello guys! Are you getting into a festive mood?

I am slowly starting to decorate for the holidays, and every year I want to have something new. For my first "new" this year (there will be other "news" too :) ) I explored what a granny stripe stitch would look like in a coaster. My first idea was to make them green (white) red (yeah, yeah, I know) but I didn't have the green yarn I imagined for my coasters, so instead I opted for these two colors. Aaaand... I am quite satisfied how these turned out. Here's the pattern if you are tickled to try it on.

Supplies: sport cotton yarn and colors of your choice in (I used Phil Cotton 3) and a 3mm hook (UK11) (US 10/3). 

Other: tapestry needle to weave in ends and sewing needle and thread for sewing on the holly.  Polyfill for the berries.

Stitches in US terminology: chain (ch), chain space (ch-sp), stitch (st.), skip (sk), single crochet (sc), single crochet 2 together (sc2tog), half double crochet (hdc), double crochet (dc), treble (tr), 3-ch picot.

Measurements of sample coasters: 15 cm/ 5.9" in width and 12 cm/4.72" in length. 

Coasters Pattern:

Foundation and row 1 (in color A): ch28 and dc1 in 4th st. from hook. Sk2 and dc3 in next st. Repeat this pattern 6 more times, sk2 and dc2 in the last st. 

Row 2: Ch3 (counts as the 1st dc hereinafter) turn work and dc3 between the 1st and 2nd cluster (of the row below). Next, dc3 in-between next two clusters. Repeat this pattern to the end where you dc1 in the last st. 

Row 3: Ch3, turn work and dc1 in 1st st. Next, dc3 in-between next two clusters. Repeat this pattern to the end where you dc2 in the last st. 

Rows 4-11: Alternate row 2 and 3 pattern. Work the tail when done. 

 

Border pattern round 1 (in color B): with work facing you, insert color B in upper right corner, ch1 and sc2 in that corner. Next, sc1 in all stitches across (25), sc2 in the left upper corner.  Working the side: Ch2 and sc1 in next row. (Here on the side we have the 3-chains and dc-stitches that make up the start of the rows, so you sc1 in each such chain/ dc stitch). Repeat this pattern to the other corner where you sc2. From there sc1 in all stitches across. Sc2 in the bottom right corner and work the side pattern. Sl st in the 1st of the round to end it. 

 

Border pattern round 2:  Ch2 and sl st again in that corner. Ch2, sk1 and sc1 in next st. From here ch2, sk2 and sc1 in next st. Repeat this pattern to the corner where you sk1 and sc1 in corner, ch2 and sc1 in corner again. Now the side: ch2 and sc1 in next ch-sp. Repeat this pattern to the corner. In corner ch2 and sc1 in corner. Next, repeat the upper and the side patterns. End round with a sl st into the upper right corner. Work tails. And you are done. Let's decorate.

 

Holly leaf pattern: with same yarn weight and hook ch12 and sc1 in 2nd st. from hook, next hdc1, dc1, ch3 and sl st in 1st st of that chain to make a picot (I will refer to it as just "picot" hereinafter), dc1, picot, tr1, picot, dc1, picot, dc1, picot, hdc1 in next 2 sts, sl st 1 in last 2 sts. Ch1 and work the other side of the leaf by working the pattern in reverse (sl st in first two sts, hdc1 in next 2, and so on). 

 

Berry pattern: 

Foundation and round 1: Ch4 and join to make a ring. Sc6 in ring.  

Round 2: sc2 in all sts. (12)

Round 3: sc1 in all (12)

Round 4: sc 1 in one stitch, sc2tog in next (8) Insert filling in the crochet bead / berry. 

Round 4: sc2tog (4)

Pull yarn, tie a knot and weave tail. That’s it. Make as many leaves and berries as you like to decorate the coasters and sew them on. 

 

If you have any questions, feel free to ask in the comments. 

 

 

Handmade Christmas Market #1

This is NOT a sponsored post!

Last year I made a couple of posts called "Buying Handmade for the Holidays"  showcasing indie designers and their work that would be perfect for gifting. I am continuing this series hoping that you get inspired and maybe buy your Christmas gifts from these wonderful shops.

Please remember - Buying handmade from indie designers, means quite a lot because you are not supporting  just their work, but also their dreams. 

1) Polymer clay earrings 

2) Kimono style linen dress

3) Felt scarf 

4) Ceramic houses

5) Whimsical floral mug

6) Linen coin purse

Flower-Specked Cape

 

 

This is a cape that's been dormant for a year. By the time I was ready to bring it to the light of day, spring was already emerging, and I thought "what's the point in showing winter stuff?", and that is how this little piece resumed its place on the shelf.

I used a lace pattern for it, and to shy away the plainness I added a small bouquet of rosettes.  It has a close, shoulder-hugging fit, that would add a beautiful effect on coats, jackets and sweaters.

It is in my shop. 

 

Her Majesty - The Granny Square

 

My Owl Blanket Pattern on Etsy

 

Happy Monday friends! 

We start this week with granny squares as inspiration. As I have previously  mentioned a couple of times, I plan to make a granny square inspired collection this winter, a collection that will encompass all the wonderful uses of a these lovely and versatile squares. 

The granny square is the most iconic motif in the craft world and its uses are plentiful.

If you were wondering what can you use it for besides making 1) blankets and afghans, here's a list that might inspire you to make something different. 

 

2) Apparel

 

Photo by Ibizabohogirl

Image by Honeybea.ca

 

From blouses, tops and sweaters to cardis and ponchos. Grannies not only make the clothes more appealing and colorful, but they also give out a vintage and nostalgic vibe. 

 

3) Accessories

 

Shawls, scarves and hats are the first to pop up to me, although I am always inspired to find new uses for it and in the picture above you can see my head scarf/kerchief. Then there are home-slippers, bags and pouches and the list goes on....

Here's a free pattern by Lulluby Lodge for fingerless warmers. How cute are these? 

 

 

4) Jewelry 

I love a good challenge and I am always excited to harness the granny into jewelry projects. I am going to share a free brooch tutorial later this month, so stay tuned. 

5) Home decor 

Pillows, cushions, buntings, table-runners, wall hangings, lamp-shades for the living room, rugs, kitchen towels and pot holders for the kitchen. (Hot) Water-bottle covers maybe? 

 

Granny square lamp by Jackie Carreira

 

What's your favourite granny square project? Do you have any in your home? 

Lace Woolen Warmers - free crochet pattern

 

Hello crochet friends! Today I am sharing a wonderfully easy pattern for lace cuffs / wrist warmers that is the best weekend project. Not to mention that it presents a lovely handmade gift for the upcoming holidays!

Please note that: The written  pattern in its entirety along with the photos are for personal use only. All property rights belong to Maya Kuzman of The Little Treasures. You can sell finished items from this pattern.

What you need

Yarn and hook: 100 gr of Austermann’s Soufle – bulky virgin wool yarn and a 4.5 mm (US G, UK 7) Yarn meterage: 140 meters per 100 gr. (144 yards).

Other: Tapestry needle for sewing the warmers together.

Stitches: chain (ch), chain space (ch-sp), single crochet (sc), double crochet (dc).  American terminology used.

Measurements of finished warmers: 9 cm / 3.54” at the wrist and 13 cm/5.11” at the top. Wrist circumference fit: 16-18 cm / 6.2” – 3.13”.

Lace Warmers Pattern:

Foundation and row 1: ch4 and dc2 in last st. from hook, ch2 and dc2 more in same st. 

Rows 2-9: Ch4 and turn work. Dc2 in ch-space below, ch2 and dc2 again in same ch-sp. We’ve worked this vertically. In row 10 we are going to work horizontally.Row 10:  Ch4 and in 1^st ch-sp dc6. Dc6 in next ch-sp. Repeat this pattern 2 more times. There will be 4 such dc6 fans. Ch4 and turn work.  

Row 11: (the ch4 at the end of row 10 counts as 1dc +1 chain) dc1 in 2^nd st and ch1. Dc1 in next st and ch1. Repeat this pattern 3 more times. You’ve filled (worked over the fan from below). Now repeat the same filling pattern, but do not chain 1 between two fans. As you worked the last (6^th) dc in the first fan, start with 1dc+ch1 in the second fan (below). When done, ch3 and turn work.

Row 12: Not counting the 1^st st., sk1 and dc1 in next st. Ch1, sk1 and dc1 in next st. Repeat this pattern twice more, next, ch1 and sc1 in next st. (one fan below covered/ filled). Next, sc1 in next st. (which is the 1^st st of the second fan) ch1 and repeat the above pattern to the end. Do not forget to sc1 in last st, and the next st of the next fan. Ch5 and turn work.

Row 13: Skip 2 dcs and sc in ch-sp. Ch5, skip 2dcs and sc1 in-between the 2 single crochet stitches from the row below. Repeat this chaining pattern to the end where for the last chain, instead of ch5, ch2 and make 1dc in the last stitch (of the row below). 

Row 14: Ch5 and turn work. Sc that chain into 1^st ch-sp. Ch5 and sc into next ch-sp. Repeat this pattern to the end. Sl st into last st. to end row.

Row 16: Ch3 turn work and sc in 1^st ch-sp. Ch3 and sc again in same ch-sp. Ch3 and sc again in same ch-sp. Sc1 in next ch-sp, ch3 and sc again in that same ch-sp. Repeat this pattern 2 more times. Repeat this same pattern for all ch-spaces. Don’t forget to sc1 in next ch-sp before you do the chaining pattern. There should be three 3-chains in each chain space. When done, leave a long ending tail that you’ll use to sew the sides of the warmers together.

Thread a tapestry needle and turn the warmers with the face inside. Align sides and leaving the last row free, start sewing the sides together. When you come to the bottom of the warmers, and if your tail is long (as mine) use it to sew (again) upwards. That way this reinforced seam will not let go after continuous wear. When done, tie a knot and hide/ weave the rest of the tail. Turn warmer inside out and you are done. Now, make the second warmer.

I hope you have pleasurable time working on this project and if you have questions
with the pattern instructions, please write in the comments.

The downloadable pattern with step-by-step photos is here: Etsy, Ravelry.